Nestled just outside the medieval village of Gavi among verdant woods and picturesque vineyards, the 20 hectares that make up the biodynamic vineyard of Giordano Lombardo straddle the border of the Piedmont and Liguria regions. The indigenous Cortese vines that are grown here give rise to an unadulterated wine that fully embodies the climate, soil and winemaking tradition of the region. Passionately committed to the idea that nature is a resource to be nurtured rather than exploited and misused, yields are kept low and the use of pesticides, herbicides, anti-mildew agents and fertilizers is strictly forbidden.
After the grapes are hand-selected, they are brought to the temperature-controlled cellar where both vinification (both in barrels and bottles) and fining take place at a consistent temperature of 14/16 °C year-round. What results is a wine that bears the intense fragrances and characteristic flavors of the Gavi terroir.
New Jersey
FANTI
The Fanti Family has been producing wine and-extra virgin olive oil in Tuscany for nearly 200 years. In the 1970s, current owner Filippo first took over the Estate, marking a major turning point in its history. After redesigning and replanting across its 300 hectare property, an innovation-meets-tradition winemaking technique has resulted in extremely high-quality grape growing, all while avoiding any non-organic fertilizers. Eighty percent of the plantings in the vineyards are Sangiovese or Sangiovese Grosso, a focus that reinforces the family’s commitment to the quality wine of the region and which is reflected in Fanti’s highly rated Brunelli. Filippo’s daughter Elisa joined the team in 2007 and has since been instrumental in reinforcing their position in the international market.
When Filippo decided to reconfigure their 300 hectare property, he allocated 50 hectares to be grape vines, just half that of the olive grove. He apportioned other plots of the property to crops and woodlands in a layout that was designed to nurture the vineyards. With soil that is laden with limestone and clay, optimal daytime sun exposure and a nighttime thermal drop, the viniculture is carefully orchestrated to mirror the flavors and aromas of both the grape and the territory. The winery itself is partially built into a hill to reduce visual impact and protect the scenery.
Inside the winery, Filippo himself has carefully selected everything, from the sorting table, stainless steel vats and pumpover system to a very high standard of barrel selection. As a result, Fanti continues to produce hallmark Southern Montalcino wines with the help of their surrounding terroir and passion for making approachable wines for new wine makers and seasoned pros alike.
ELLNER
Champagne Charles Ellner, in the heart of Epernay, was and is a family business. At the end of the 19th century, Charles Emile Ellner, the founder of the House, began acquiring small vineyards in Epernay while also starting his career as a professional “riddler”. In 1905, he first released Champagne under his own name. His son Pierre and his 4 grandsons developed the business, and in 1972 the company became “Negociant Manipulant”.
Today the house is run by Jean-Pierre Ellner, one of the grandsons of the estate’s founder. His nephews Frederic and Arnaud Ellner manage vineyards and production. His daughters Emmanuelle Foulon Ellner and Alexandra Ellner also work at the estate.
The House of Ellner possesses about 50 hectares of vineyards, located across more than 15 villages in the Champagne region. The Ellner vineyards produce about 50% of the total grape crop.
None of Charles Ellner’s wines see malolactic fermentation. All are fermented in stainless-steel tanks to preserve fresh fruit flavors (only the Chardonnay blended into the vintage wines spends a few months in giant oak barrels between primary fermentation and bottling). They are then left to sit on their lees for a minimum of 4 years (the law is only 18 months) to allow the wines to soften a bit, fill out, and become beautifully drinkable upon release yet ageable at the same time.
The painting which inspired Charles Ellner’s iconic labels has been damaged and the identity of the artist has been lost. In 1986, the estate decided to include the painting on their labels. In 2012, Champagne Charles Ellner gave a more modern touch to their labels, focusing on one of the women in the painting.
DBERG
Were one to seek an absolutely typical (in the most positive sense of the word) representative of the Weinviertel, one would certainly find this in Weingut Dürnberg. But this producer is still so much more. The wines from Dürnberg embody all the virtues that demanding international wine consumers expect from Austrian wine: crystal clear fruit, crisp elegance, charming varietal character and, above all else, light-footed mineral expression. This is achieved because Christoph Körner conscientiously abstains from cloying voluptuousness and focuses instead on elegance and freshness. Respectful cultivation and gentle guidance in the cellar result in wines with authentic character.” -Falstaff Guide 2017
Weingut Dürnberg is one of the wine estates that have been pioneering the development of a “new Weinviertel style”. Christoph Körner is a Weinviertel native with heart and soul who proves with every new vintage that the Wienviertel, Austria´s most undiscovered winegrowing area, has incredible potential. The wines exude freshness and balance, and while they are as crystal clear as a Winter night, they display complexity and finesse as well, comprising all of the virtues that are expected from Austrian wine. Dürnberg‘s goal is to have long-lasting vinyards. They do not seek high yields but consistently high quality, healthy grapes that reach full phenolic ripeness. To that end, they do not use nitrate fertilizers but rather work with carefully chosen plantings of legumes and grasses in the vinyards. This keeps their soils healthy and rigorous. This green management helps them to build up the humus content and eliminate the need for irrigation, thus successfully also reducing botrytis as well. Two years ago they succeeded in convincing all their vintner collegues in the valley to abstain from insecticides. Sustainibility is very important for Dürnberg and their strategy. They focus on getting the highest quality out of old and healthy vinyards. So they keep their vineyards green for at least 10 months of the year without erosion and compaction. In summer, they cut the roots of the weeds in between the rows with a special machinery and turnover the soil in every other row of the vinyard. Later in August they plant legumes again. Dürnberg is certified by Sustainable Austria, who has certified only 23 wineries so far, of which Dürnberg is the only one from Weinviertel.
GETRANK
In Austria, Grüner Veltliner is as much a part of the national culture as classical music, elegant coffee houses, and competitive bodybuilding. For years, Grüner has been traditionally bottled in a liter-sized bottle with a crown cap – intended for fresh, immediate consumption and for sharing among friends. Although all iterations of this grape are gaining notoriety in the United States, it is still the original, utilitarian liter “house wines” that remain the most popular.
For the “Getränk,” our friends at Dürnberg in the village of Falkenstein are using younger vines at higher altitudes. Approximately two-thirds of the grapes come from Dürnberg vineyards, with the remaining from two growers in the same village who closely follow the same rules of certified sustainable farming. Harvest can take place quite late, beginning in the end of September, which is a big advantage. The grapes preserve well-balanced natural acidity, and are collected and processed at cool internal temperatures, helping to avoid oxidation and any disagreeable aromas or flavors. Fermentation is done in temperature-controlled steel tanks, after which the wine rests for two months on the lees, followed by filtration and bottling. The result is an easy-drinking, refreshing glass of wine. Prost!
CHALETP
Located on a hillside overlooking the village of Pouilly, Domaine du Chalet Pouilly has been family owned and operated since 1850, passing down expertise and passion from one generation to another. The 8.5 hectares are shared between Pouilly Fuissé (5 hectares), Saint-Véran (3 hectares) and Mâcon-Solutré planted in 2009 (0.5 hectares). The estate practices sustainable wine-growing methods and some plots are grown according to the organic standards.
Today, Chalet Pouilly is run by Marie-Eve Léger, who joined the domain in 2009 after completing her degree, and her parents Agnès and Bernard. They practice traditional wine-growing methods, respecting the terroir, and their philosophy is to allow nature to express itself through the vinification process in order to create rich-flavored wines with a rustic touch. Their vines are old, and their soil rich and calcareous.
“Domaine du Chalet Pouilly is a small grower, but small can be beautiful. Father and daughter team of Bernard and Marie-Eve Leger are in charge here, the winery itself founded way back in 1850 on top of the hill overlooking the village of Solutre-Pouilly. In case you were wondering, it is named after the slatted facade of the winery that lends it the appearance of a chalet. Theirs is a small portfolio of wines, though Marie-Eve told me that it will be joined by a 0.4-hectare plot of Macon-Solutre from 2012. The wines are generally aged in used demi-muids except the St. Veran that sees no oak contact. I must confess, being unfamiliar with this name I had no expectations, but I adored these succinctly crafted, mineral-driven wines that you just want to elope with.”
– Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate #208, August 2013